The celtic games
Tournament weapons construction
All Celtic Games tournament weapon simulators are made with ¾” or 1” PVC piping or Silo-Flex tubing as the core with dense foam pipe insulation or pool noodle covering all striking surfaces.
This makes a simulated weapon that is light enough not to cause serious injuries but sturdy enough for it to hold up to hard use.
The PVC cannot be filled. It must remain empty.
No weapon can weigh more then 2lbs.
Weapons are provided by the Games, or players can make and bring their own.
If you have money or want ideas, visit Edhellen Armoury at www.edhellen.com. If the participant is authorized or qualified in SCA heavy or youth combat; Adrian Empire, Amtgard, Dagorhir or FMA combat systems; those weapon simulators are permitted. No live steel and no rattan.
Any personal weapons brought by a participant are subject to the workshop facilitators’ inspection
(The first thing a player will be asked is, “are you willing to be hit with that weapon?” If the participant’s answer is No, or the simulated weapons isn’t built to the below standards. that weapon is Out)
Any participant in the tournament part of the games may refuse to face any other participant, or any particular weapon(s) or may request that their opponent change weapons before a round.
(example: a swordsman may ask that his opponent who steps out with a polearm, switch to sword)
construction Standards
To make a simulated sword, start by cutting the PVC pipe to the proper length.
A good length for a one-handed sword simulator is equal to the length of the user’s arm. This is usually about 30-35” butt to tip. Can be longer, or shorter.
The open ends of the PVC are then capped with Schedule 40 end caps with the end caps glued on with PVC glue. The bare PVC then is taped with strapping tape from end cap to end cap.
The foam used for weapon blades is pool noodle, or pipe insulation ‘Armorflex” for a 1” copper pipe, 1 1/8” inside dia. There are two sizes of insulation for 1” copper pipe, we use the thicker one.
Pipe insulation comes in bags of 4 or 5 pieces under the brand name ‘Frost King’ The foam will then be put on covering the blade of the weapon and extending 2” beyond the end of the end cap.
Pool noodles can be shaved down on the sides (use a hacksaw blade or a bread knife) to look more like a real sword with flat sides. Pipe insulation may not be shaved.
The foam will then be smoothly covered with duct tape, lengthwise not spirally wrapped. Wrapping spirally adds extra weight and compresses the
foam so the weapon will have less padding.
The duct tape should extend past the end of the foam onto the handle to secure the foam to the weapon.
Take a 1” wide piece of foam and roll it. The roll is then stuffed into the opening
left by the foam-extending pass the end of the PVC. The tip is then covered smoothly with duct tape.
A contrasting color tape is used to mark the edge of the blade.
Grip tape can be added to the hilt or handle of the weapon to hide the strapping tape. Handles can also be wrapped in fabric or cord.
Single-handed Swords
(1) Made from 3/4” schedule 40 PVC . This is the thicker walled white PVC pipe commonly. Available in the plumbing section at Home Depot, Lowes, or any hardware store. It will say ‘Schedule 40’ right on the pipe.
It’s sold by the 10-foot piece, and the store will cut a shorter piece for you.
(2) The bare PVC must have glued on end caps and the whole length taped with strapping tape.
(3) The blade or striking surface will be padded with foam pipe insulation for a 1” copper pipe and then smoothly covered with duct tape.
Wrinkles in the tape can cut or scrape skin.
(4) cross guards or tsuba can be made of foam, foam-covered plastic, rubber, or leather. No metal. A solid foam garden kneeling pad from Big Lots works well. So does an old flip-flop sandal.
(5) All single-handed simulated swords must have a lanyard so it won’t get knocked out of the hand while in play.
(6) The pommel, butt, or handle end, must be padded in the same way as the blade tip. Alternately, the maker can cut a dead tennis ball and use it for the butt cap.
The tennis ball will not work for the thrusting tip but it makes a great pommel.
Great sword, claymore, buster blade, or katana:
(1) Made from 3/4” schedule 40 PVC.
(2) The bare PVC must have glued on end caps and the length taped with strapping tape.
(3) The blade or striking surface will be padded with pool noodle or foam pipe insulation for a 1” copper pipe and then smoothly covered with duct tape.
The blade should be at least 2/3 of the total length. For a 54” katana, a 36” blade is about right.
(4) The Quillon or cross bar must be padded in the same way as the blade.
(5) No butt spikes. The pommel, or handle end, must be padded in the same way as the blade tip.
(8) Maximum length is 54” from butt to tip.
Polearms: Glaive, Naginata or Axe This weapons simulator is for advanced and/or experienced users only!
(1) Made from 1” schedule 40 PVC. This is the heavier weight PVC commonly available.
(2) The bare PVC must have glued on end caps and the length taped with strapping tape.
(3) The blade or striking surface will be padded with pool noodle or foam pipe insulation for a 1” copper pipe and then smoothly covered with duct tape.
(4) Striking surfaces on two-handed weapons shall have a minimum width of 2 . inches.
No two handed weapon shall weigh more than 3 pounds.
The blade on a 2-handed weapon should be about 1/3 to ½ the total weapon length.
Garden kneeling pad works well to make axe blades from.
For a 5-foot polearm, a 20” blade and 40” grip works well.
(5) No butt spikes. The butt must be padded in the same way as the blade, or with tennis ball, but May Not be used to strike with.
Blocking with the handle is allowed.
(6) A contrasting tape mark will be placed on the handle, 2/3 the length of the glaive.
(7) The fighter using the glaive will have one hand above the mark and one hand below
the mark. This prevents the fighter from swinging the glaive like a baseball bat.
(8) Gloves or other hand protection are strongly recommended.
(9) Maximum total polearm length is 5 feet.
(10) Glaives are allowed to have thrusting tips
Glaives and Axes are only recommended for participants with experience. Having played in the Celtic Games Tournament at a previous festival, isn’t necessarily enough experience!
If a players only experience is US Armed Forces bayonet or pugil training, polearm isn’t recommended.
Spear
(1) Made from 1” schedule 40 PVC.
(2) The bare PVC must have glued on end caps and the length taped with strapping tape.
(3) All Spears must have a thrusting tip leather or rubber, covering the last 12 inches of the PVC on the thrusting end. Foam and tape to be a minimum 2 and 1/2 inch in diameter and extend 3 inches past PVC.
Striking tip shall also include one half split tennis ball end or equivalent (1/2 a Nerf football) over foam on the business end.
(4) Spears require inspection for wear and cracks immediately before each bout.
Blade and Thrusting tips for swords and glaves are made the same way: The fun noodle is slid on to the PVC so that two inches are on the PVC and two inches extend pass it and is filled with foam just like the sword tip. Do not slice the fun noodle to make it easier to slide on to the PVC. If you spray the PVC with glass cleaner it will temporally make the PVC slippery
enough to get the fun noodle on.
The whole thrusting tip must be taped in a contrasting color tape. (If you have a gray blade on your polearm or spear and use red tape to mark the blade edge then use red tape to mark the whole four inches of the thrusting tip.)
Shields
(1)made from rigid material like plywood or Kydex/ABS/Lucite plastic. Lucite shields can't be see-through.
(2) shields need to be painted or covered with fabric so they contribute to the atmosphere and don't look like you're holding a tabletop. A single color of spray paint is fine. Be as simple or fancy as you want.
(3) shield edges should be covered with pipe insulation and well-taped. This helps protect sword blades from being damaged when they impact the edge of the shield. Insulation may be tied on with zip ties, fishing line, or cord.
(4) shields may be center-grip, or arm-strap type.
(5) maximum size is 24” round, or 18” w x 30” l rectangle 'scutum'
'Heater' (classic shield-shape) and 'wankel' (curved-sided equilateral triangle) shields are also allowed